This is Humphrey’s Peak, the tallest point in Arizona (12,637 feet high).  It is actually a grouping of extinct volcanoes that are part of the San Francisco Volcano Field, but the most interesting thing about this picturesque place, is that it is very important to the Hopi People.  It is the home of the Kachina Spirits.

This is what it looked like to the Ancient Puebloans who lived here at Homolovi.  The Kachina or Katsina spirits are deities, natural elements, animals or deceased spirits of the Hopi.  They are messengers and bring gifts to them such as rain that will help their crops grow, thus enabling food to grow.  Every spring, the Hopi hold a Kachina Dance on Second Mesa.

My friend Gwen, a third generation Hopi pottery artist and Ranger here at Homolovi invited us to join her at the Kachina Dance.  I was excited and nervous all at the same time.  As we arrived, that soon turned to joy and awe.

Gwen, her fiance Gaelyn and stepson Shilo took us to the home of one of her aunts for a delicious meal.  Inside the Pueblo, many tables were set up end to end, covered with colorful tablecloths in the center of the room with benches and chairs.  The whole center of the table, going down the whole length was covered with delicious food.  Large bowls of Hominy stew were the main course, there was sliced, homemade bread, roasted hot green peppers, heaping plates of Hopi Pudding, cakes and cupcakes, pies and cookies.  It was all served family style and it was delicious.  As we ate, more delicious food appeared in front of us.  Gwen told us how to thank our generous hosts, in their own language.  I, being female, was to say “askwali”, and Bill was to say “kwakwhay”.  The three ladies in the kitchen, busily cooking said “you’re welcome” to us.  It was a wonderful experience.

Then we climbed to the rooftops to watch the dance.  There are four dances in the morning and four in the afternoon.  We gazed down into a rectangular courtyard surrounded by buildings.  Everyone waited in anticipation for the dance to begin.  Then, the Kachinas appeared.  They marched through the village carrying baskets full of fruits, vegetables, cookies, breads and snacks.  There were 90 of them all wearing colorful masks, collars from fir trees, carrying a sprig of fir and each had an ear of corn.  Gorgeous turquoise jewelry adorned them, along with shells, and topped with colorful hair and crowned with a small bouquet of feathers and greenery.  There were three different types of Kachinas, and I wish I knew the difference.  Most were bare chested but some wore colorful shirts.  Following them were 30 Mudheads carrying drums and rattles.  The Mudheads were the singers.

As they filed in, the Kachinas put down their baskets at one end of the plaza.  The two elders directing the dance lined up the Kachinas in a grid and then positioned the Mudheads facing them on the other end.  When all was ready, the elders gave a signal and the mudheads began to play music and sing.  It was wonderful.  Then the Kachinas began to dance.

The rhythm of the music and the dance was mesmerizing.  During the dance, the elders spread sacred cornmeal as a blessing.  When the dance was finished, they all gathered up the baskets and tossed gifts out to the people.  Gwen explained that when you catch a gift you say thank you by putting it to your lips.  She told us to not be shy and go ahead and grab whatever comes our way.  We received roasted sweet corn, a round of bread, two colorful cookies, and two bags of peanuts with candy.

We met Gwen’s brothers Buddy and Dee.  Gwen went to help her family and her brothers invited us to another aunt’s home for another meal, where Gwen rejoined us all.  Another delicious meal in a beautiful home with warm Hopi hospitality.  We laughed as we ate.

One thing I forgot to mention is that the dance is held at the top of the mesa.  The meals were at the bottom.  After two climbs for two dances, Bill was exhausted, LOL.  We thanked Gwen, Gaelyn and cute young Shilo and headed back to our camp at Homolovi with warm hearts, good spirits and full bellies.

The Kachina Dance lasts three days.  At the end of each day, the elders send the Kachinas home to rest up.  We were very lucky to be able to attend this dance and to be welcomed and included.  Not all are open to the public.  No pictures are allowed, and it is best to leave your cameras at home and cellphones in your car or turned off.  Respectful attire required (no shorts or tank tops), no hats on during the ceremony and no umbrellas.  Non-Indians should not ask questions, but rather wait for something to be explained to them.  These were not difficult rules to follow, and in fact were a pleasure to show respect and admiration for a culture so rich in their customs and history.